The physics of surfing

Nick Pizzo

“You cannot stop the waves but you can learn to surf”: this is a beautiful a very deep philosophical thought by Jon K. Zinn, a master of mindfulness which applies not just to surfing and sport in general, but to LIFE.Surfing, as a matter of fact, relies a lot on the laws of physics and science. Watch the following video and provide your answers.

Exercise 1: Choose the correct answer

So while you may not be thinking about weather patterns in the South Pacific, tectonic geology, or fluid mechanics, the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. And the waves we surf, created by wind,are just one visible part of the continuous oscillation of energy that has shaped our universe since its very beginning.
Have you ridden the perfect wave? How many times? Share your experience…

Exercise 2: Share your experience…

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