“You cannot stop the waves but you can learn to surf”: this is a beautiful a very deep philosophical thought by Jon K. Zinn, a master of mindfulness which applies not just to surfing and sport in general, but to LIFE.Surfing, as a matter of fact, relies a lot on the laws of physics and science. Watch the following video and provide your answers.
As soon as you hit the water:a. You feel goodb. You become a master of physicsc.You displace a lot of water
When surfing you stay afloat because:a. You feel incredibly goodb. Your board is very lightc. You are pushed up by the force of the waves against your board.
Ocean waves :a. Behave like other waves in physicsb. Move a lot of energyc. Are created by the wind.
When the perfect wave approaches, you should:a. Aim your board towards the waveb. Start stretching your legsc. Stand on your board and keep your balance
The wave’s crest :a. Must always stay above youb. Is where water particles acceleratec. Is not affected by gravity
The "barrel" is:a. A wave shaped as a cylinderb. A very accelerated wavec. The perfect wave
A "barreling wave" usually lasts:a. More than 30 secondsb. Only 13 secondsc. Less than 30 seconds
Surfers’ worldwide favorite waves:a. Originate in Portugal and Californiab. Travel across the Oceansc. Are caused by poor weather conditions
La pasta della pizza :a. Deve lievitare per mezza giornatab. Si stende e poi si fa lievitarec. Si fa lievitare e poi si condisce
Il "cornicione" è :a. Un tipo di formaggiob. Un tipo di pizzac. Un tipo di ripieno
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